On Friday night our ship, Isabela II, crossed the Equator and headed north from Santa Cruz Island to Genovesa (Tower) Island. At sunrise we entered Darwin Bay, a partially eroded volcanic caldera with sheer cliffs surrounding all but the entrance. We went ashore for a two-hour hike along the coraline beach. As usual, we were greeted by sea lions, some more active than others. Frigatebirds (some in full display), Nazca boobies, herons, pelicans, and red-footed boobies nesting in their mangrove “condos" kept us entertained with their antics as we admired their individual features. Wading knee-deep in the lagoon we spotted diamond stingrays and many more sea lions, including one young pup who seemed particularly saddened by our departure.

Then it was back to the ship to don our snorkeling gear and a quick trip in the Zodiac took us to the eastern edge of the caldera. Once in the water we were joined by six playful adult fur seals who seemed to be waiting for us. With the rays of sunlight dancing over the rocks and coral, we observed a dizzying array of fish such as yellow-tailed surgeonfish, leather bass, hogfish, and a well-camouflaged stone scorpionfish, all the while accompanied by the curious and fun-loving fur seals.

The entertainment was not yet over for the day . . . ascending the steep cliffs via Prince Philip’s Steps we were treated to the spectacle of thousands of seabirds. The myriad calls and cries sounded like a symphony warming up for a concert. The icing on the cake was the sighting of not one, but two, extremely well camouflaged short-eared owls ever ready to pounce on unsuspecting birds as they attempt to enter their ground-level nests.