It’s not every day that one has the opportunity to wander through the deserted ruins of an ancient city in the company of the archaeologist who brought the treasures of the area to light, but this was our privilege today. Hector Williams has spent over a decade of summers carefully uncovering the historic site of Anamurium, which dates from the 4th century BC. Its favorable location, protected from prevailing winter winds and less than 50 miles from Cyprus, attracted settlers throughout the Roman, Byzantine, and later Medieval periods. Hector’s informed commentary helped to recreate the complex and varied human history that spanned these millennia. The first autumn rains of the previous night added crispness to our morning visit, with the songs of rock nut-hatches and blue rock thrushes ringing around the ruined city.

The modern town of Anamur, named after its ancient predecessor, is also home to the picturesque fortress-castle of Mamure Kalesi. First constructed by the Cilician Kings of Armenia, the castle was utilized by successive conquerors, including both the Crusaders and the Ottomans. A quick stroll along the top of its crenellated walls, which plunge directly into the Mediterranean Sea, gave some insights into its impregnable nature and strategic importance of the fortress in earlier times.