Written by Rich Pagen

After crossing a large agricultural valley just west of Morocco’s Atlas Mountains, the defensive castle-like walls of the city of Taroudant came into view. This small, fortified market city was formerly an important outpost on the caravan route to and from the Sahara, and as we passed through one of the gates into the heart of the city, it felt as if we were traveling back through time.

We roamed on foot through the narrow alleyways, sharing the limited space with a constant flow of countless bicycles and small motorbikes. Intricate tile work adorned the walls of a small shop that produced oil and perfume from the seeds of the area’s emblematic Aragan tree. At the local souk, colorful slipper-like Moroccan shoes dominated the goods in some stalls, while others were fronted with huge piles of olives, each a slightly different shade of green or purple.

Sidewalk cafes lined the central square, where crowds of locals gathered around to watch a charismatic snake charmer, and to listen to a number of performing musicians. Donkeys pulled carts past school children on bicycles, while the city’s signature olive-green Mercedes Benz taxis constantly pulled up to and away from the curb.  

Because few foreign travelers visit Taroudant, it has truly retained its feel as a traditional hub for commerce and people in southern Morocco.